For the long lunch

Roe-Crowned Smashed Potatoes

The potato provides the edges. The roe provides the reason.

What is required

• 1 lb (450 g) small Yukon Gold potatoes
• 3 tbsp olive oil
• Salt
• 1/3 cup crème fraîche, cold
• 2 oz (55 g) trout roe
• 1 lemon, for zest
• A small bunch of chives, finely cut

Method

1. Heat the oven to 450°F (230°C).
2. Boil the potatoes in well-salted water for 15 to 18 minutes, until a knife slides in easily. Drain and let them steam dry for 5 minutes.
3. Oil a baking sheet. Press each potato flat with the bottom of a glass until it splits but holds together.
4. Brush with the remaining oil and season with salt. Roast 20 to 25 minutes, until the edges shatter.
5. Let them cool for 2 minutes. Add a spoon of cold crème fraîche to each, then the roe, chives and finely grated lemon zest.

Hot potato, cold roe. The contrast is the point. Top them just before serving.